hildredboveeer

10/25/18, 11:31 AM

I have a 1975 bronco with the dura spark ignition and it wont start, well it wont do anything! I put a brand new battery in it, turn the key and accessory all work but no click or tap or anything when you hold it in start.

I don't have an manual for the 75 models I would love to have a color coded wring diagram for the ignition system. It appears that it is very stock wiring. This truck was converted to an auto at some time so I guess there is a chance it is a neutral safety? Truck used to start fine, but has been sitting for about 2-3 months.

10/25/18, 02:43 PM

No dice!!!

Changed the ignition module, changed the solenoid. Still nothing. Ugh!

10/25/18, 03:08 PM

No worries.
I am out of time for today. Wont have time to mess with it until next week. Got to go through each wire and connection back to the switch and double check the grounds.
Don't think its the switch as the accessory comes on but nothing in the start position?

Crazy thing is I only needed to move the truck around my yard at work then park it. This truck is so far down the list of things I need to work on!

10/25/18, 04:20 PM

What SHX said. Only one dedicated circuit energizes the starter. But there are plenty of places for a fault to lie. Including (but less likely) a new battery!
The battery is low on the possible culprit list of course, since you just replaced it. So the list goes like this:

1. Ignition switch. Easy to check for voltage at the Red w/blue wire with the right probe. Of if that is not workable, you can remove the main connector from the back of the switch and test it with an ohm-meter.

2. The Red w/blue wire itself, between the ignition switch and firewall.

3. As mentioned, the neutral safety switch if you have the C4 automatic. If you have a manual transmission you still have the same connector behind the motor. Look for a 4-wire square connector with two Red w/blue wires and two Black w/red wires.
The body-side connector will have all four wires. The engine compartment side of the connector will have two Black w/red wires, but a simple loop of wire (as a jumper) between the Red w/blue wires.
This Red w/blue jumper is often at fault with no-start situations after all these years. They just get old.

4. The same Red w/blue wire should be on the "S" post of the starter relay/solenoid. It's usually on the left of the two small connectors, but depends on how they mounted the relay to begin with, so look for the "S" molded into the plastic.
The Brown "I" wire does not have anything to do with the starter cranking either. But without the Red and blue wire, nothing happens.

5. The starter relay itself. Old ones are pretty reliable, but they still get old and die. New ones are crap for the most part, right out of the box. So if this is a recent replacement I would suspect it.
Easy to test these too. If you jumper between the battery cable and the terminal where the Red w/blue wire is and the starter cranks, your relay is good and the Red w/blue wire is your suspect.
Just this week another member found that his was hacked in a few places and one of the splices had come apart.
Darn PO's!

Remember in all this testing that if your battery is connected, make sure the transmission is in Park if an auto, or neutral if a manual. Otherwise not-so-funny things can happen.

Good luck.

Paul

10/25/18, 06:53 PM

Click this & read the caption:

(phone app link)

10/25/18, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtDonk View Post

Easy to test these too. If you jumper between the battery cable and the terminal where the Red w/blue wire is and the starter cranks, your relay is good and the Red w/blue wire is your suspect.

Paul

Before doing this make sure the C4 is in the Park position! This completely bypasses the NSS and the starter will crank whether in gear or not.


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10/25/18, 11:31 AM	#1
Contributor Bronco Junky I used to have time! EasternShore, MD Joined: Aug 08 Posts: 3,292 My Gallery	Ignition diagram for Dura Spark 1975 I have a 1975 bronco with the dura spark ignition and it wont start, well it wont do anything! I put a brand new battery in it, turn the key and accessory all work but no click or tap or anything when you hold it in start. I don't have an manual for the 75 models I would love to have a color coded wring diagram for the ignition system. It appears that it is very stock wiring. This truck was converted to an auto at some time so I guess there is a chance it is a neutral safety? Truck used to start fine, but has been sitting for about 2-3 months.
	67, 289, NP-435, 3.5 lift,1"BL, 35s,custom bumpers, work always in progress. 70 sport 302 3spd no lift Cut, 33s, original paint NO RUST

10/25/18, 01:24 PM	#2
Contributor Sr. Member �Buddy� Denver, CO Joined: Mar 15 Posts: 355	What color is the plastic strain relief on the control module? If it's green, replacements are not available. The parts stores all carry the blue strain relief modules. Page 69 of this wiring guide (https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10113.pdf) has the diagram for the blue module.
	1975 Bronco Sport, 302/Viperbuilt 4R70W/D20, Explorer EFI tuned by EFIGuy, More Patina than Paint...built with the help of the members of Colorado Classic Broncos

10/25/18, 01:51 PM	#3
Contributor Bronco Junky I used to have time! EasternShore, MD Joined: Aug 08 Posts: 3,292 My Gallery	It is not the stock module. It is a Wells replacement. I have a spare I am going to try. Not sure where the ballast resistor is on this truck, Where would it be?
	67, 289, NP-435, 3.5 lift,1"BL, 35s,custom bumpers, work always in progress. 70 sport 302 3spd no lift Cut, 33s, original paint NO RUST

10/25/18, 02:43 PM	#4
Contributor Bronco Junky I used to have time! EasternShore, MD Joined: Aug 08 Posts: 3,292 My Gallery	No dice!!! Changed the ignition module, changed the solenoid. Still nothing. Ugh!
	67, 289, NP-435, 3.5 lift,1"BL, 35s,custom bumpers, work always in progress. 70 sport 302 3spd no lift Cut, 33s, original paint NO RUST

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1975 Ford Duraspark Wiring Diagram

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10/25/18, 02:50 PM	#5
Contributor Sr. Member �Buddy� Denver, CO Joined: Mar 15 Posts: 355	I forgot about that ballast resistor. That came with the painless harness. I'm not 100% sure where the resistor would be in the stock harness. Someone will chime in that knows.
	1975 Bronco Sport, 302/Viperbuilt 4R70W/D20, Explorer EFI tuned by EFIGuy, More Patina than Paint...built with the help of the members of Colorado Classic Broncos

10/25/18, 03:08 PM	#6
Contributor Bronco Junky I used to have time! EasternShore, MD Joined: Aug 08 Posts: 3,292 My Gallery	No worries. I am out of time for today. Wont have time to mess with it until next week. Got to go through each wire and connection back to the switch and double check the grounds. Don't think its the switch as the accessory comes on but nothing in the start position? Crazy thing is I only needed to move the truck around my yard at work then park it. This truck is so far down the list of things I need to work on!
	67, 289, NP-435, 3.5 lift,1"BL, 35s,custom bumpers, work always in progress. 70 sport 302 3spd no lift Cut, 33s, original paint NO RUST

10/25/18, 03:16 PM	#7
Bronco Guru Oregon Joined: Jan 09 Posts: 1,970	Ignition module and ballast resistor have nothing to do with the motor not turning over. Check the NS switch or the wires coming and going to and from . Also check the two wires going to the starter solenoid to make sure they are connected or not broken under the connector . Hmm- also next maybe check the ignition switch to see if it's operating correctly in the start mode.
Bronco Guru Oregon Joined: Jan 09 Posts: 1,970

10/25/18, 04:20 PM	#8
Contributor Bronco Guru San Jose, CA Joined: Nov 03 Posts: 40,793	What SHX said. Only one dedicated circuit energizes the starter. But there are plenty of places for a fault to lie. Including (but less likely) a new battery! The battery is low on the possible culprit list of course, since you just replaced it. So the list goes like this: 1. Ignition switch. Easy to check for voltage at the Red w/blue wire with the right probe. Of if that is not workable, you can remove the main connector from the back of the switch and test it with an ohm-meter. 2. The Red w/blue wire itself, between the ignition switch and firewall. 3. As mentioned, the neutral safety switch if you have the C4 automatic. If you have a manual transmission you still have the same connector behind the motor. Look for a 4-wire square connector with two Red w/blue wires and two Black w/red wires. The body-side connector will have all four wires. The engine compartment side of the connector will have two Black w/red wires, but a simple loop of wire (as a jumper) between the Red w/blue wires. This Red w/blue jumper is often at fault with no-start situations after all these years. They just get old. 4. The same Red w/blue wire should be on the "S" post of the starter relay/solenoid. It's usually on the left of the two small connectors, but depends on how they mounted the relay to begin with, so look for the "S" molded into the plastic. The Brown "I" wire does not have anything to do with the starter cranking either. But without the Red and blue wire, nothing happens. 5. The starter relay itself. Old ones are pretty reliable, but they still get old and die. New ones are crap for the most part, right out of the box. So if this is a recent replacement I would suspect it. Easy to test these too. If you jumper between the battery cable and the terminal where the Red w/blue wire is and the starter cranks, your relay is good and the Red w/blue wire is your suspect. Just this week another member found that his was hacked in a few places and one of the splices had come apart. Darn PO's! Remember in all this testing that if your battery is connected, make sure the transmission is in Park if an auto, or neutral if a manual. Otherwise not-so-funny things can happen. Good luck. Paul
	'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought" '68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built" www.wildhorses4x4.com

10/25/18, 06:53 PM	#9
Bronco Guru Fullsize Bronco Guru Memphis, TN, USA Joined: Jul 03 Posts: 8,582	Click this & read the caption: (phone app link)

10/25/18, 10:30 PM	#10
Contributor Bronco Guru Great Scott!! Maui, HI Joined: Jul 11 Posts: 1,699	Quote: Originally Posted by DirtDonk Easy to test these too. If you jumper between the battery cable and the terminal where the Red w/blue wire is and the starter cranks, your relay is good and the Red w/blue wire is your suspect. Paul Before doing this make sure the C4 is in the Park position! This completely bypasses the NSS and the starter will crank whether in gear or not.
	'74 U152 \| 302 \| Comp Cams XE256H-10 \| C4 \| D20 Twin Sticked \| PS \| Front discs + Hydro \| MSD 8479/Pertronix 510 HP \| Centech Wiring \| 3G 130A \| Detroit Lockers \| Edelbrock 1905 AVS 2 \| TFS Twisted Wedge \| 3.5" SL \| 31x10.5x15 Dick Cepek MT's \| US Wheel Indy Slots

10/26/18, 02:44 AM	#11
Contributor Bronco Guru western Pa. Joined: Sep 03 Posts: 7,995	Get a volt meter or the very least a test light, throwing parts at it is not gonna fix it and could cause other issues.

10/26/18, 05:08 PM	#12
Contributor Bronco Junky I used to have time! EasternShore, MD Joined: Aug 08 Posts: 3,292 My Gallery	Thanks for all the input guys. The solenoid and ignition box was a shot in the dark. I had them on the shelf so through the at it. My guess it is a bad wire, ground or something like that. This truck has been sitting for a long time and I have had a few other corroded wires on other items that I have had to repair or replace. I will break out the multi meter and check the things DirtDonk recommended. I was in a rush and only had a few minutes to check stuff before I left work. I hope on Monday I have a little time to check everything in more detail. I will post what I find.
	67, 289, NP-435, 3.5 lift,1"BL, 35s,custom bumpers, work always in progress. 70 sport 302 3spd no lift Cut, 33s, original paint NO RUST

10/29/18, 01:49 PM	#13
Contributor Bronco Junky I used to have time! EasternShore, MD Joined: Aug 08 Posts: 3,292 My Gallery	Thanks again for all the info. Problem was something in the neutral safety switch wiring. Jiggled all the wires, took the connector apart put a jumper in and it turned over. Then put the connector back together and it turned over again. Funny it would turn over but wouldn't start, so I put the old ignition box back in it and it fired right up! Took her for a run around the block, purrs like a 43 year old kitten LOL.
	67, 289, NP-435, 3.5 lift,1"BL, 35s,custom bumpers, work always in progress. 70 sport 302 3spd no lift Cut, 33s, original paint NO RUST